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As an (almost) native Californian, I realized long ago that the weather allows us the privilige to take certain things for granted, often to the chagrin of the rest of the country. Most of us don't own a snow shovel. We get fresh produce pretty much year-round. And for the vast majority of us, the double-digit months don't necessarily signal the end of barbecue season. I barbecue pretty much year round, and why not? Even when the mercury dips to a chilly 38 degrees (you know, when the rest of the country is in the single digits----hee, hee, hee), what's nicer than warming yourself over an open fire that also happens to be providing your supper? And whatever you're in the mood for,