Local Business

Japanese fondue, do you shabu?

2009-12-05T22:32:49Z

Downtown Sacramento has so many popular sushi destinations — Mikuni, Nishiki, Sakura, Zen. Each Japanese restaurant has its own creative dishes, but most also offer only standard boiler plate menus of sushi rolls, teriyaki plates, and soup-based udon and sukiyaki.

John Voong, owner of Shabu Japanese Fondue, believes Sacramentans are hungry for change.

"I see it this way. It's a new concept here in Midtown," Voong said. "Sacramento is ready for something like this."

Shabu did a soft opening Nov. 30 to gauge diners' interest and it will continue until Thursday. According to Shabu's Twitter page, the first night was a "great success" and boasted a "packed house the entire night."

"I have heard requests for this," Voong said. "This is not Asian fusion, this is an actual proper Japanese dish. I think Sacramento will enjoy the style of it."

Voong worked for a number of years at Osaka Sushi in Elk Grove and Davis, working his way from busboy to manager to chef. He described himself as entrepreneurial.

"I felt that it was either now or never," he said. "I am ready for it and I went with it. I have a lot of good support, and I felt ready."

Shabu, the word for Japanese fondue cooking, is onomatopoeic. That is, the word comes from the sound associated with the action. Shabu translates roughly to "swish swish," the noise made by the chopsticks in the large cooking pot, Voong said.

The dining experience begins with starters of edamame, wakeme salad (Japanese seaweed), or oshitashi (steamed spinach with a citrus sauce), all less than $5. The second course is a Japanese hot pot, which heats up different soup bases, Voong said.

"Concept-wise it is similar [to Melting Pot], but the taste is more Asian or Japanese," he said. "The soup bases are a miso, spicy miso or shoyu (soy sauce).

The primary ingredient is thinly sliced beef, lamb or chicken. Other choices include assorted vegetables, udon noodles and rice. Diners shabu (swish swish) their food before consuming. Two dipping sauces, ponzu (citrus) and sesame enhance flavors. All meals are served with tofu, mushrooms, noodles, rice, and green tea ice cream for dessert, Voong said.

Entrées are less than $20; a plate of beef is $13, and a large plate of lamb is $17. A sampler with beef, lamb and chicken is $18.

Single diners are welcome, with 12 seats at the bar, Voong said.

"I have a modern design concept in the dining areas," he said. "One section has a long table for larger parties, another section for couples, or two friends, and the long bar seating. There will be TVs in the bar with either sports or cooking shows."

Eventually Voong wants to offer lunch, but for now it is all about breaking into the Sacramento market.

"I just opened on Monday," he said, with a laugh. "I want to make a good first impression. I want to get established first, succeed, and then eventually begin to grow."

Shabu is at 1730 16th St. It is open from 5 to 9 p.m. until Dec. 10. The grand opening will be Dec. 11 with hours of operation scheduled to change.

Read the menu here.

Old Ironsides 75th Anniversary celebration

2009-11-03T04:08:26Z

If these walls could talk, Old Ironsides would have a lot to say after seven decades and lots of intrigue. Papa Bill Bordisso opened the building downtown in 1934, just after Prohibition ended.

"My father said you could at one time see all the way down to the river. It was just completely open space," said owner Billee Jean Bordisso Kanelos, Papa's daughter.

A celebration marking 75 years for Old Ironsides happens all this month. Each week, Ironsides will feature drink and lunch specials from a particular decade, Kanelos said.

"Back in the '40s, there was a popular special called the half and half," Kanelos said. "That is basically half spaghetti and half ravioli. We can't keep the prices what they were back then, but we will keep them as low as we possibly can."

Drink specials will be served with a interesting slice of American history.

"One of the drinks we will have is called 'Moscow Mule'," Kanelos said. "Gin and brandy were big sellers in the '40s, and the Mule is made out of ginger beer and vodka. Because of that drink, there was a huge shift from gin to vodka in the '50s, and eventually it phased out the popularity of gin."

Surprisingly, not much historical analysis has been done on the building.

"We did have a historian come here back in the 1970s, and she was able to determine a rough estimate of the year due to the architecture," Kanelos said. "The architecture is called Italianate, which was popular a decade after the Civil War."

Papa Bordisso added a 'playroom' in the 1940s, complete with a fireplace and pinball machines, that hosted popular Shuffleboard competitions. Eventually, the shuffleboard fad died and Bordisso added a liquor store. Soon after, grocery stores began to carry liquor, so music and entertainment became the focus.

Clearly, Old Ironsides has changed with the times.

The secret to survival is having a good, family-run business, and the help of a lot of talented people, Kanelos said.

"In the '90s, we decided to go into nightlife and entertainment," she added. "It started out with one band, and now we show bands each week."

The 75th anniversary party will be on Nov 22, with appetizers and drink specials from 1 to 6 p.m.

"We plan on having a DJ spinning music from the '30s, and free samples from our lunch menu that will be passed around as appetizers," Kanelos said.

Perhaps the biggest reason to celebrate are all the memories Old Ironsides has created over the years.

Kanelos has many fond memories of her family's business.

"As a girl, I would come down on a Sunday and skate around with other kids while all the families and old folks were in the bar," she said. "We opened at 6 and by 6:30 all the stools were taken, many by businessmen that would come in for a coffee and brandy before heading home.

"A lot of comedians and bands from all over the world have performed here. All walks of life have come through," Kanelos added. "Sacramento has been very good to us."

Old Ironsides is at 1901 10th St. Lunch is served Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Old Ironsides' Web site is here.

More information on Old Ironsides' myspace Web site here.

Photos courtesy Old Ironsides.

Orphan Breakfast right at home in East Sacramento

2009-10-22T04:08:24Z

The name sounds misleading, eliciting imagery of "Little Orphan Annie," or playful puns from Charles Dickens' novel "Oliver Twist". But the food served at Orphan is absolutely no joke.

Chris Pendarvis, owner of Naked Lounge and Naked Coffee in Sacramento, opened his new restaurant on Sept 28.

"Coffee is very competitive," Pendarvis said. "I wanted to move forward on a different level, and round out the Naked Coffee business. We certainly now have all morning needs covered."

Orphan is located across the Cannery Business Park in East Sacramento. The space has already been used as a restaurant over the years, Moxie Jr. initially, then the more recent Sapor and Soprattutto Salumeria & Ristorante.

The name Orphan just felt right when he saw the space, Pendarvis said.

"I don't believe in brand identification," he said. "I was attracted to the sound and it just felt right. I looked up the definition and found it to also mean, 'to deprive of commercial sponsorship, not partnered.' I knew that was the name right away."

Pendarvis redesigned the interior giving it a modern contemporary feel. The seating is intimate, allowing only about 24 sit-down patrons. Wood tables, wrought iron chairs and black and white photographs hang from colorful walls around the building. Three windowed roll-up doors face the east side, obliging patrons the opportunity for outdoor dining.

"I wanted it to be accessible and comfortable," he said. "The feel should be eclectic, but not shabby. I wanted to utilize the space and got rid of some ugly windows that were in here previously."

The menu is identical to Isabel's Catina, created by Chef Isabel Cruz, whom Pendarvis worked with in Pacific Beach, California. The Asian and Latin fusion cuisine creates healthy vegetarian and meat dishes. All the ingredients are fresh and delectable, Pendarvis said.

"I want people to leave an empty plate, but not feeling like they ate a horse," Pendarvis joked. "The meals are not super weighty or heavy, but you will leave feeling satisfied."

Banana blackberry pancakes are served with fresh fruit puree with real maple syrup. Breakfast tamales are made from sweet corn served with eggs, black beans and garnished with cheese, sour cream, tomatoes and cilantro. Both are priced under $10.

The "eggs lulu" is made with cream cheese, scallions and roma tomatoes scrambled with three eggs, which is served between a fresh house-baked croissant and a side of fresh fruit.

The $4 breakfast special going on right now is one of the best in town, Pendarvis said.

"It involves two blackberry pancakes, two pieces of bacon and two eggs," he said. "We call it the two-plus-two-plus-two equals four special. It is a great value for what you are getting."

Staying true to Naked Coffee's roots, all coffee served is roasted right on site.

"All of our coffee here is single origins," Pendarvis said. "There is no blend, it is all drip, roasted right here. That in itself is different from other breakfast places in Sacramento."

Pendarvis said he has no future plans for expansion, or opening up the restaurant for late lunch or dinner.

"I am perfectly satisfied with how things are right now, I don't want to expand," he said. "Quality is lost if the product becomes too diluted. The food is well prepared with lots of love. It is all about quality for me."

Orphan is located at 3440 C St. Operating house are Monday through Thursday 8:00 a.m until 2 p.m. Friday through Sunday 8:00 a.m until 3 p.m.

Orphan only accepts cash and checks.

Iron Steaks serves iron values

2009-10-13T23:35:01Z

Bill Taylor knows a thing or two about quality meat. Taylor, owner of the iconic Willie's Burgers, recently opened Iron Steaks located in Land Park Sacramento neighborhood.

"We wanted good quality that you can find at the best steakhouses, but price it reasonably," said Taylor.

Meals are served in family-style portions to share. A sample dinner can include crab cakes, seared Ahi crusted with toasted almonds for appetizers, a 48 oz. porterhouse (which serves up to 6) served on a cast iron platter for an entrée, and green beans and sautéed mushrooms with demi-glaze for sides.

Each entrée is served with coleslaw and beignets, a type of fried dough.

"A typical evening meal with three to four people with prime meat will cost maybe $25 per person," said Ron Henderson, banquet manager.

Taylor wants his steakhouse to have the same reputation and quality as the famous Peter Luger Steakhouse in New York. The Brooklyn based steakhouse is reputed to be the discerning steak connoisseur, having been in business for over 100 years.

"The concept is simple; generous family-style servings to share and enjoy at affordable prices in surroundings as comfortable as your own home," according to the Iron Steaks website.

Atmosphere is just as important as the food served, Taylor said. Iron Steaks is located at the former Fuji restaurant building, which served the Sacramento community for 20 years.

"It was important to keep the eclectic Asian feel," Taylor said. "This building is an important part of the community."

Taylor wanted to incorporate the traditional look of a steakhouse along with his own vision.

"I wanted to keep the wood, but give it a cross cultural approach," he said. "So we gave it a contemporary blend, and kept the feel and spirit of the building."

The booths on the west wall of the restaurant are plush and comfortable. Lighting reflects off the suspended ceiling, creating a warm ambiance. Traditional Asian-style patterns are throughout the restaurant. There is seating for large groups, as well as seating for just couples or smaller groups of three or four.

Starting Oct. 13 Iron Steaks will be open from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. for the lunch crowd.

"This is a great place for state workers to have lunch," Taylor said. Here they can enjoy a good meal in under an hour before heading back to the office, he said.

A typical lunch will cost under $14 and will include sliders, a 6 oz. steak, steak sandwiches, and the traditional Crab Louie salad just to name a few.

Of course, he will also stay true to his roots.

"People are expecting me to serve hamburgers for lunch," laughs Taylor. "And we will, with fresh quality meat, buns, and our own sauce."

A premier item will be his half-inch-thick sweet and smokey bacon, he said. There will also be a tasty vegan burger for non-carnivores complete with chopped walnuts, soy cheese, pinto beans, and guacamole on a whole wheat bun.

With no corkage fee for wine, Taylor said he is committed to reasonable prices and not cutting corners on the dining experience.

"We realize it is tough for everyone right now," he said, "but if you still want to enjoy going out and have a fantastic dining experience, we can do it."

Iron Steaks is located at 2422 13th St. in Sacramento. It is open from 11 a.m. until 3 p.m. for lunch starting Oct. 13. Evening dining hours are Monday through Thursday 5 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 p.m., and Sunday 5 to 9 p.m.

Photos courtesy the Iron Steaks website.