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California's new wine country: Sacramento

by Kim Reyes, published on January 12, 2012 at 10:33 PM

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Sacramento’s wine industry received a boost last month with the approval of an ordinance that promotes agricultural tourism, a move local wineries said they are excited to see.

The Sacramento County Board of Supervisors voted unanimously in December to adopt new zoning code amendments that will potentially foster growth of Sacramento’s wine industry. The changes will take effect in just a few days.

Among other things, the ordinance provides the grape growers of a certain size the right to produce and bottle their own wine; gives wineries the ability to open small tasting rooms in agricultural zones; and eliminates the requirement for conditional use permits for private events, with restrictions based on the size of the property.

“It promotes people growing local and buying local,” said Don Nottoli, supervisor for district 5.

The presence of wineries in Amador, El Dorado and Yolo counties increased dramatically in recent years, but Sacramento county’s growth has been minimal, a fact the Board of Supervisors addressed with the ordinance.

According to the Sacramento Bee’s SacWineRegion.com, there are 43 wineries in Amador County, 54 in El Dorado County and 16 in Yolo County, including industry giant Bogle Vineyards. Sacramento County has just 13.

“We feel this is an important step to encourage economic growth, job creation and keep tourism dollars in our county,” said Nottoli in a press release on Dec. 14. “By reducing regulatory obstacles, we can help Sacramento County become an important part of the wine tourism industry.”

According to the Sacramento County 2010 Crop and Livestock Report, more than $92 million in wine grapes were produced in the region that year, the most valuable agricultural commodity in the county.

These amendments allow for a more streamlined process and will save businesses thousands of dollars and as much as two years in permitting time, Nottoli said. The money, previously spent on permits, can be invested into growing the businesses.

“One of the things we’ve seen is that Sacramento’s culinary tourism has increased dramatically,” said Mike Testa, senior vice president at the Sacramento Convention & Visitors Bureau. “If we put the same attention into our wine industry, the tourism package is something we can certainly sell.”

Testa added that groups attending conferences in Sacramento often make day trips to wine country, and Sacramento should be making every effort to keep them here.

Revolution Wines, at S and 29th streets in Midtown, is an urban winery, said owner Gina Genshlea. In addition to the tasting room and bistro that serves snacks and small plates, the grapes are crushed, pressed and fermented on-site.

Genshlea said she thinks it would be great to have more wineries in Sacramento because it would give visitors to the area a reason to stay in Sacramento rather than travel to Napa or Sonoma counties to taste wine.

“One of the reasons we expanded is there isn’t a wine trail in Sacramento,” said Craig Haarmeyer, winemaker and co-owner of Revolution Wines.

The winery will mark its second year on S Street this spring. Several varietals are produced at the facility, including an award-winning port and a zinfandel, with grapes sourced from Amador County.

“It’s part of our model to highlight local fruit,” said Genshlea, adding that they produce approximately 2,500 cases of wine annually, along with another 2,500 that they bottle for clients.

Frasinetti Winery in south Sacramento, established in 1897, once had its own vineyards, but grapes are now sourced from the Central Valley, Monterey, Napa and Sonoma counties, said Gary Frasinetti, winemaker.

Frasinetti said he would welcome the increase of local wineries because it would make Sacramento more of a destination.

In the mid 1980s, the family converted the old winemaking facility into a restaurant and banquet venue, a process that took several years.

Today, Frasinetti Restaurant has the capacity to host events for up to 200 guests, and many of the restaurant’s dining tables are located in some of the 12 converted square, concrete fermentation tanks of the original winery.

“The restaurant is a vehicle to get people out here,” Frasinetti said. “If they come out here to eat, they can taste our wines.”

The tasting room offers free wine tasting and a large gift shop. The winery produces 10,000 cases annually, and Frasinetti said the chianti, cabernet sauvignon and merlot are the winery’s most popular varietals. Wines are only available for sale at the winery.

Scribner Bend Vineyards, located in the Sacramento Delta, has been open for eight years.

Owner Mark Scribner said the ordinance will give the region’s wine producers the opportunity to sell their appellation to the public.

Scribner Bend’s best-selling varietal is the tempranillo.

Scribner added that the ordinance will help to create a coalition of vintners and growers who can better represent the industry.

“If you look at all the other wine-growing regions, they have multiple wineries,” Scribner said. “That’s what creates the magic.”
 

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January 13, 2012 | 10:43 AM
Great story, Kim! I can't say I'm personally familiar with Sacto-bred wines - the region definitely faces an uphill battle being sandwiched between already established regions like Amador, Sonoma/Napa and Lodi. But, step one is certainly awareness...
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January 13, 2012 | 2:13 PM
Wine Tourism is taught at Sac State.
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January 14, 2012 | 7:49 AM
Thank you for a great mention of Sacramento/Delta wineries. A great new wine region that is producing many award winning wines.
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January 15, 2012 | 7:26 AM
I thought wine making was all about the Region the grapes were grown, the weather there, the soil condition the varietal that Is best suited for a particular place.

Is Sac County an ideal place to grow wine grapes?
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January 16, 2012 | 2:44 PM
I thought the same thing. I had no idea you could just one day decide "Hey! We should be a wine region!"

That being said, I love wine and welcome new wineries with open arms!
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January 18, 2012 | 10:17 AM
Sacramento County is a great place to grow grapes. At Revolution we make some very good wine from local grapes including Syrah from Clarksburg in south sac county, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Gris from Clarksburg (on the Yolo Co. side). Our Double Gold winning vintage port comes from a vineyard in Galt in south Sacramento County and we have a very delicate and balanced Bordeaux style blend raised in Wilton, also south Sac County.

Do you know what Sacramento's biggest agricultural crop is? Not tomatoes anymore......it's wine making grapes. Come check it out sometime.....

-Craig
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January 18, 2012 | 1:06 PM
Apparently so! $92 million in wine grapes in 2010. We must have the "magic."
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January 17, 2012 | 9:23 AM
Just because you're a winemaker, doesn't mean you're a grape grower, and vice-versa. =) Many wineries purchase their grapes from growers, then crush and press it themselves. Pressed juice is even sold as it's own commodity from some growers. Some varietals grow do well in the Sacramento summer heat, and some do not (i.e. pinot noir has thin skins, and doesn't like extreme temperatures, so it's grown in places that are more temperate, with chilly nights, like the many coastal regions in CA..) Lodi produces more wine grapes than any other CA region, so hale and hardy varietals, like Zinfandel, and Petite Syrah don't wilt in the Central Valley heat....
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JAT
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January 17, 2012 | 9:59 AM
You didn't mention the downsides. One - environmental degradation. Wine grapes require tremendous amounts of water, especially here in the hot valley. Conventional grapes are grown with pesticides and herbicides which get into our creeks and rivers. Vast numbers of trees are cut, and wildlife is displaced or killed. Neighbors on rural roads have to endure traffic and noise from what are essentially commercial operations in residential zones. Giving this trend special dispensation to break rules designed to protect us all is very shortsighted. Being a vintner has become a frou frou way to make people think they're cool and on the edge. That will fade, and we'll be left with thousands of acres of denuded and degraded land.
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January 17, 2012 | 3:14 PM
dude. there are few trees in Sacramento county except on urban lots where no one in their right mind would plant grapes. Are we talking about Sacramento, CA or some other Sacramento in a parallel universe? Maybe we should punish the remaining Sacramento Valley native Americans because their ancestors allowed the elk to denude and degrade the great "Sacramento Valley forest" of your imagination.
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January 17, 2012 | 10:44 AM
For actually being a grape grower and winemaker in the Sacramento Delta region, the amount of energy and chemicals that go into growing the grapes is quite minimal. In fact, this year we only irrigated once due to the heavy rain season. Since the water table is so high in the soil from the river, grape growers can actually almost get away with dry-farming, i.e. no outside water usage. The chemicals used are to prevent common diseases from getting onto the grapes or the vegetative areas surrounding the grapes, it's mostly for protection which is a common practice all over. The grape growers/farmers in the Delta perform crop rotation and promote previously used areas to regain their strength before being put back into production. And as for cutting down surrounding vegetation for extra room, heck no! The more predatory birds that are attracted to keep down the rodent population is a big plus for us!
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JAT
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January 17, 2012 | 5:53 PM
Look beyond Sacramento. This trend is going strong in Placer and El Dorado counties, where thousands of trees have been cut down to grow grapes. Many more have been damaged by the deep ripping of the ground that cuts roots of adjacent trees. And we don't have a high delta water table. We do have neighbors on rural roads who have to put up with drunk wedding guests at these commercial wineries.
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January 18, 2012 | 8:09 AM
I work with the local wine industry in Placer County. There are 17 wineries here and I don't know of one that has cut down any significant amount of trees in order to plant vineyards. Further, a popular farming practice for wine grapes is DRY farming. This means once the vines are established, there is very little watering done. We also have NID ditch-water irrigation here and we are a "right to farm county" - a long-held policy and history that is in-line with our post-Gold Rush heritage. Of course there are several sides to any argument, but folks should check their facts before making these types of claims. Placer County is foothills - rolling hills, not the High Sierras which is more forested. Housing developments rip out more trees around here than any vineyard or farm ever could!
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JAT
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January 18, 2012 | 9:06 AM
And those who make their living from an industry don't have a biased, myopic view point? Ag, including wine grapes (which isn't really ag since you're not making a true food product) is given carte blanche to cut trees, evict wildlife, and use chemicals. The county ag commissioner looks the other way by doing minimal inspections and water quality testing. Supervisors and city councils have all jumped on the bandwagon of thinking vineyards make them cool, thus they close their eyes to the downsides. Ask neighbors of these places.
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May 8, 2012 | 8:18 PM
I have to agree completely with GRAPEANDWINEOH and placergrown. I'm not sure where some of you are getting misinformation. Pesticide use is minimal and highly regulated. As far as cutting down trees to plant grapes, there is not one ounce of truth to this. In the Sacramento Delta, most of the wineries and grapes growers have been in the region for generations. Some as much a 6 generations. Many are 4-5 generations. This area has been farm land for 150 years at the minmum. There have never been trees on the land. The land has been used over the course of the 150 + years for crops only. Those crops vary depending on supply/demand and other variables.

This Sacramento Delta has some of the most furtile and rich soil around. Farmers in this area have always produced some of the best crops and now they are lining their winery walls with awards from wines produced in the region.

Please believe me when I say, the farmers in this area love their land and do all they can to sustain the nutrients and value of it.
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