STORYLINE Eating local food

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The myth of the local Trader Joes

by Esteban McCubbin, published on January 15, 2010 at 10:13 AM

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I used to go to a Trader Joes back in the early 90's that felt like a warehouse of bulk bins, locally made artisan bread, and produce from the central valley. As I grew into adulthood, and the Trader Joes franchice kept pace with their spurious growth across the US, the store changed. Actual artisan food disappeared, as nearly everything came from a single warehouse in Los Angeles, with most--if not all--of the produce getting trucked up from Central America. 

Trader Joes cleverly masks their mass-production, oil-gulping delivery network with the ubiquitous Friendly Flyer, a marketing coup that has convinced us all that they are the local grocer and baker and butcher. We're caught in this paradox, where, in our quest to eat healthy, organic, and more simple food, we shop at a market where virtually nothing is actually from the community (except for the few stale baguettes they sell). In this attempt to better our lives with good food from TJ's, we're destroying the local food community and cutting deep and jagged edges into the profit ledgers of those small companies. 

So what's the big deal? Don't shop there if you don't want to, right? I need to be careful about being that guy who puts on my holy robes of local food and flagellates you with the sceptor of truth. Well, I'm sitting here in my skivvies at the moment, and my only foray into flagellation resulted in scarring period of self-depracation. All I'm saying is that our commitment to being and buying local demands a greater attention to the big picture: a mega neighborhood corporation, whose systems delivery rivals Walmart, undoes the tie that binds--the family owned farms in the Sacramento Valley, the Cowgirl Creameries, the Bella Brus, and the Lucky Dogs.

 

 

 

 

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January 15, 2010 | 1:56 PM
great conversation starter Steve. I enjoy shopping at Trader Joe's for the type of products they carry but it is true that it is really just a liberal Walmart. (p.s. I can never understand why people are giving thumbs down--whether it is for the content or the quality of the article).
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January 15, 2010 | 3:45 PM
agreed - we need two sets of thumbs: quality of writing + content of article
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edited on  January 15, 2010 | 2:22 PM
Thanks. I neglected to bring the article full circle, by encouraging Trader Joes patrons to lobby their nearby Trader Joes to carry more locally grown and made items. I tried doing this with their beer selection to no avail.
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January 15, 2010 | 2:37 PM
I assume that it becomes impossible for a local branch of any store to carry local beers or foods as soon as the entire company becomes large enough.
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January 15, 2010 | 3:47 PM
i tried the same thing at Cost Plus - who are quite capable of championing small producers continents away but can't carry wine made within the same area code
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January 15, 2010 | 5:19 PM
I have heard that City Councilwoman Lauren Hammond is planning to do a local purchasing law around city contracts--don't know how far it can be extended
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January 15, 2010 | 2:28 PM
What we have here is a 'Soup Nazi' scenario (Seinfeld reference). Some people will just shut up and queue up to get the best they can buy. I've had repeatedly bad service at my local outlet for sustainable food. I'll take Trader Joe's or Raley's for my shopping experience any day, if I want to stay in a good mood.

Until the dirty hippies and English majors at the checkout of my local sustainable food outlet learn a thing or two about customer service, I will prefer to live my life amongst the almost as good selections of TJs. This goes for my coffee, too.
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January 15, 2010 | 5:30 PM
Ian..your local AM PM is not what most people consider a local & sustainable retailer....
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January 18, 2010 | 9:14 AM
I will tolerate bad service for a slurpee. It's the $20 wheel of Cowgirl that had better be rung up with a smile.
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January 16, 2010 | 12:22 PM
Here's the thing...I'm ready and willing to "shop locally" and support local producers and businesses. I'm even willing to pay more $$ to do so. But what I'm NOT willing to do is put up with hostile, shoddy, or non-existent customer service--which is exactly what I've repeatedly received at more than one local sustainable food outlet in town. Or I get the nose-in-the-air, I'm-better-than-you-because-I'm-vegan-whatever attitude. So I've taken my self and my wallet elsewhere.

When I go to TJs, I get a clean store and smiling, friendly employees who act like they're genuinely happy to be there helping you. I don't buy my produce there, because the quality isn't very good (I go to the Sunday farmer's market for that). I do wish they would carry more local stuff, but in the end better customer service counts more.
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January 18, 2010 | 4:11 PM
Traders Joe's should be part of a balanced shopping experience.

And by balance, I mean accepting the con of limited availability of local products in exchange for the pro of TJ's being a non-union shop.
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January 19, 2010 | 10:25 AM
Sunday's farmer's market under the freeway downtown has become my ritual. If you like bacon, you'll love what they have. No additives, no preservatives, no corn fed hogs, all vegan diet... so much taste, less sodium, and goes great on those jalepeno cheese bagels.
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February 15, 2010 | 10:40 AM
I never understood this : why not just go vegan and bypass the middleman? err middlebeast?
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