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Italian food Biba style

by Matthew Ceccato, published on January 13, 2010 at 11:58 PM

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Dine Downtown is back with stomachs and wallets rejoicing. Restaurants across the grid opened their doors, welcoming patrons with tantalizing three- or four-course dinners for $30. I decided to eat at Biba Tuesday night for the first time.

As a lifelong resident of Sacramento, the aura of Biba is undeniable. From her now classic cooking show, Biba's Italian Kitchen, multiple cookbooks and award-winning cuisine, Biba Caggiano is a powerhouse in Northern Italian cuisine. With so much hype resting on the meal, I'm happy to report it didn't disappoint my high expectations.

The antipasto offered a choice of Polpette di Granchio e Cappe Sante (crab and prawn cake) or Barbabietole Arrosto (beet salad).

I chose the former. My cake was filled with chunks of crab and prawn and rested upon a bed of peppers and capers. Though delicious, the cake, when compared to the rest of the meal, was just alright.

My dining partner was extremely happy with the beet salad. Expecting a bed of greens with scattered beets, the plate was a pleasant surprise when it contained just beets and a few slivers of onions and cheese. I don't like beets, but these were delicious, marinated in olive oil.

For the second course, we both chose the Gnocchi di Ricotta con Gorgonzola. The gnocchi were especially creamy and melted in my mouth. Resting upon a Gorgonzola cheese sauce, the 10 gnocchi reminded me of why I wanted to eat atBiba. The elegance of the gnocchi combined with the simplicity of the cheese sauce created an exciting buildup before each bite. After the gnocchi is devoured, the sauce sits puddled at the bottom of the bowl begging to be soaked in bread to be enjoyed again.

If a gluttonous death awaits each diner, then the coup de gras is the third and final course. I attacked the Stinco di Angello con Cannellini e Pomodoro (oven-braised lamb shank) with joy. As the meat melted off the bone to fall to the plate, it was rescued by the delectable sauce of white beans and grilledpolenta. My partner raved about the sea bass. Though not on the website menu, this non-meat choice was a pleaser. The poached fish sat upon a bed of roasted peppers and eggplants.

Though the Dine Downtown menu technically ends there, who could leave without dessert?

After careful consideration we chose the Zuccotto Fiorentino. Hard to pronounce and a chocolate sin to eat, but worth every minute of future repentance. A rum pound cake sits on top of whipped cream, hazelnuts, almonds and chocolate chunks. The entire dome is covered in rich chocolate that protects the fragile, creamy inside.

Dine Downtown is an amazing experience that every foodie (amateur or self-described professional) should enjoy. Leading Sacramento area restaurants are offering an opportunity to enjoy food that excites all palates. Dine Downtown continues until Jan. 17. For a complete list of participating restaurants, visit their website.

 


 

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January 14, 2010 | 5:53 AM
The last time we darkened Biba's restaurant's doorstep, we intended to just have a Friday night after-work drinks party at the bar, but ended up staying for dinner.

Now, while I'm a very good cook, I am in no way a gourmet, even though I shop from Taylor's and Corti's, and spend a considerable amount of time in SF and NYC eateries. I've also been to Italy a number of times, and have had the real deal in terms of the country's indigenous food.

Biba's seems to me to be amazingly overpriced, serving teeny tiny portions for what is paid, and snootily snobbish in its attitude and environs. There only seems affectation among its offerings rather than genuine sustenance and casual elegance and good hearty Italianized fare...

I won't be returning...

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January 14, 2010 | 1:37 PM
Maybe you came on a bad day. My meal and visit were exquisite. Dine Downtown is not limited to Biba, several restaurants are participating as well.
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edited on  January 14, 2010 | 3:51 PM
It would seem, good sir, that you did have an extra large portion of the whine.
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